Leaving Kenya I flew down to Arusha between the spectacular sister peaks of Mount Meru (also known as Oldonyo Orok the ‘black mountain’ in Maasai) and Kilimanjaro. A familiar journey that I have taken countless times before both by air and road. Many years ago I lived on the sublimely beautiful, unspoilt, forested slopes of Meru and returning here always has a sense of coming home. But how it has changed.
Arusha has transformed from sleepy town to bustling metropolis. The fastest growing urban conurbation in sub-Saharan Africa. Ace Africa work with several communities here in the often densely populated countryside and villages that surround both Arusha and its smaller neighbour, Moshi. I am here to photograph some of the projects and beneficiaries.
Although Tanzania is essentially non-tribal the people differ as anywhere else. Here, in Northern Tanzania many of the people are waArusha – essentially settled Maasai – and Chagga people who often farm the bases of the two mountains.
Population growth is an issue here and the towns thrive with people everywhere. The markets are huge and all around there is a sense of energetic activity. Tourist vehicles heading for the game parks or ‘The Mountain’ jostle with lorries, buses, motorcycles cars and pedestrians. The smell of diesel fumes are ubiquitous and noise and colour abound. Its hot here too. And unseasonably on this trip, wet too.
Ace works, as ever, with the marginalised. Incidences of HIV infection are still high here. Many women bring up children alone. Other youngsters are raised by grand-parents. Ace Africa works in all areas of the community. Health care, nutrition, housing, counselling, education… wherever the need is.
Everyone one meets in Africa has a story. Many are tragic. Too many unnecessarily so.
The last picture in this portfolio features a young Muslim girl (wearing a white hijab) during a home counselling session. She’s now 14. Her bright disposition belies a terrible truth. From the age of 8 she has been abused and raped by a relative, her parents’ neighbour. Threatened with death by her rapist if she spoke out she became deeply withdrawn at school and terrified of men and boys. Her school teachers saw a significant problem but had no training to deal with her. Ace Africa have people on the ground who can step in and do something. The rapist fled and is being sought by the authorities and this lovely girl is safe. She can now speak about her ordeal with people who are trained and capable to help her and gradually, ever so slowly her life is returning to some kind of normality.
- Nembulis Lesikari, Olmotonyi
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Nembulis Lesikari, Olmotonyi
Portrait of an Ace Africa beneficiary. Nembulis Lesikari at Olmotonyi
- Tefania Macha, Mabogini, Moshi
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Tefania Macha, Mabogini, Moshi
Ace work deep in the community finding vulnerable people who need support.
- Yasinta Chami, Mabogini, Moshi
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Yasinta Chami, Mabogini, Moshi
Portrait of Yasinta Chami, Ace Africa beneficiary
- Mabogini Resource Centre, Moshi
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Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi
A local resource centre is often all a community has as a place to go to deal with daily issues or problems.
- Child, Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi
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Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi
Children are everywhere one looks in East Africa and their natural beauty is often captivating.
- Mwajuma Yusuf and her child, Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi
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Mwajuma Yusuf and her child, Mabogini Recource Centre, Moshi
Portrait of a mother and her child.
- Street Cafe, Chekereni, Moshi
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Chekereni, Moshi
Street food is available by the road or in town for anyone with a bit of cash to spare.
- Chekereni, Moshi
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Chekereni, Moshi
The main street of Chekereni is wet after a shower of rain. Chekereni in Colonial times was where the train was checked hence the almost eponymous derivative name of the small town.
- Chekereni, Moshi
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Chekereni, Moshi
The main street in the small town of Chekereni, Moshi
- Community Banking, Chekereni, Moshi
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Community Banking, Chekereni, Moshi
In Chekereni and in many communities women have set up their own banking system to give out small loans to keep the local economy moving
- Shopkeepers, Chekereni, Moshi, Tanzania
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Shopkeepers, Chekereni, Moshi, Tanzania
Shopkeepers, Chekereni, Moshi, Tanzania
- Katanini CtC School, Ckekereni,
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Katanini CtC School, Ckekereni,
Portrait of a CtC member. Child to Child is utilised by Ace Africa in schools to help children to learn about social a issues from their peers
- Sanitary Education, Arusha, Tanzania
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Sanitary Lesson, Arusha, Tanzania
Something as fundamental and as simple as sanitary care can prevent a girl going to school. Ace Africa provides sanitary towels and education to thousands of schoolgirls.
- Firewood Girls, Olmotonyi, Tanzania
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Firewood Girls, Olmotonyi, Tanzania
Many households still cook using firewood and this work is another task for the women or girls.
- WaArusha & Livestock
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WaArusha & Livestock
Cattle and goats are still a fundamental part of the way of life for many people in Tanzania.
- Elinipa Lusujaki, Kimnyaki Resource Centre
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Elinipa Lusujaki, Kimnyaki Resource Centre
Ace work with governmental offices to establish and run Resource Centres in local rural communities. A lifeline for many.
- The Girl in the Window, Chekereni, Moshi
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The Girl in the Window, Chekereni, Moshi
The Girl in the Window, Chekereni, Moshi
- Schoolboy, Arusha, Tanzania
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Schoolboy, Arusha, Tanzania
Portrait of a schoolboy, Arusha, Tanzania
- Edupoto, Lemgur
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Edupoto, Lemgur
It’s not everyday that a mzungu arrives in the homestead with a camera.
- Rape Victim Councelling, Mabogini, Moshi,
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Rape Victim Councelling, Mabogini, Moshi,
A mother weeps as her daughter recounts her ordeal to an Ace Africa counsellor.
- Segura Ngungati, Oltumo Group, Kimnyaki
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Segura Ngungati, Oltumo Group, Kimnyaki
Portrait of Segura Ngungati. A farmer on Mount Meru, Tanzania
- Portrait of Mwajuma Yusuph, Moshi, Tanzania
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Portrait of Mwajuma Yusuph, Moshi, Tanzania
Portrait of Mwajuma Yusuph, Moshi, Tanzania
- Edupoto, Lemgur,
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Edupoto, Lemgur,
Hanging out the shuka. The Shuka is the traditional robe worn by almost Maasai’s in East Africa.